Chaya is the cute new shoe-box-sized Japanese eatery along Brunswick St in Brisbane’s New Farm, and it’s everything you want a great neighbourhood restaurant to be and more.

My workmate put me onto the authentic venture that had opened round the corner from her just four weeks ago, and was happy for me to spread the word. But her housemate was less than impressed. She wanted to keep it a secret — a special little local for her to enjoy just metres from home.

The truth is, though, if it wasn’t me, it would be someone else lifting the lid on this hideaway because — as the old saying goes — good news travels fast, and this place is definitely good news.

Run by possibly the most altruistic and kind-hearted of teams, they have a genuine passion for their product and the people they serve.

Osaka-born chef Satoshi Kubota regularly makes his way out of the kitchen, delivering dishes to tables and explaining how they’re best enjoyed.

As we discuss their pending liquor license — due in about a week which will see the venue serve sake, shochu, and Japanese whiskies and craft beer — I mention I’m heading to Japan later in the year. He quickly heads for a notepad, writing down a must-visit destination in his home city. My super sweet waitress also contributes, offering ideas on what to do and eat — albeit with both completely clueless to my identity.

This is simply genuine, old-fashioned hospitality — the type that gives you the warm and fuzzies and is enough to have you coming back, even if the food is average. But, luckily, for Chaya, the culinary experience is just as rewarding as the service.

The menu traverses appetisers like agedashi tofu and nasu dengaku — eggplant with miso, to yakitori-style skewers and panko-coated, deep-fried kushikatsu; along with a selection of sushi and sashimi.

Blowtorched aburi tuna nigiri ($8.50) is the first to arrive, the yellow fin tuna beyond delicate in flavour and texture and treated with the utmost of respect; as is the house-cured salmon ($12) with a saucer-sized plate covered in beautifully fragile, citrus-spiked fish. Both dishes show the mastery of Japanese technique where the produce is left to shine.

Wagyu tataki ($12) demonstrates equal skill, a fan of beef slivers to be individually rolled up with sliced shallot and spring onion and the finest dice of garlic, ginger and daikon before a dip in expertly balanced ponzu — simple satisfaction.

But if there’s a dish that epitomises the dining experience on offer at Chaya, it’s the gyoza ($8). The steamed pork dumplings are finely dressed with a sesame-spiked sticky glaze and slide down effortlessly — humble, comforting and familiar yet elevated.

While the interiors may be no-frills with just a few small tables lined down the long, narrow room and some bar seating outside, it doesn’t matter what the place looks like when the food and hospitality is this good.

This review originally appeared on couriermail.com.au.