A newcomer to the CBD, Chica Bonita (meaning pretty girl) is a much larger restaurant spinoff of the Manly taqueria of the same name. This is the third venue by Sean and Luke Miller, set in a high-ceilinged heritage-listed terracotta-hued space that, come 6pm, is jam-packed with the after-work drinks crowd, followed closely by those ready for a big feed, big night out, or both. You can sit at the bar, the kitchen counter or in booths, or get communal down the centre of the restaurant, ready to roll up your sleeves and work your way through as many dishes as your budget can muster. Chica Bonita is the margarita party the city has been looking for, but the real party is on the plate.

This is not straight down-the-line Mexican, but it’s lively, racy and delicious thanks to Mexican-born chef Alejandro Huerta’s ability to contemporise the food of his homeland. Dip blue corn chips into a nicely seasoned guacamole. A salad of green apple and cured cucumber bring harmony to a spicy salsa bruja and rich, thick-cut Spanish mackerel ceviche. The fish taco is a must – here pink ling, cabbage and coriander fill a quaint taco, and a duck taco with sour cherry roasted salsa, orange and jalapeño is worth consideration, too. Kingfish ceviche on tostadas gets a twang from finger lime and sea bananas, while charred South Australian king prawns get a good lathering of arbol chilli and chipotle, and slices of pork belly swim in a delightfully light mole colorado with fermented kale. Chica Bonita sure is pretty; a pretty good time that is.

Must eat dish: Mackerel ceviche, green apple, cucumber