Two years after Chin Chin took over the ground floor of the Griffith Tea Building, it’s hard to imagine a time when there wasn’t always a queue at the door. Its popularity hasn’t cooled since opening and neither has the cooking. A pan-Asian menu trades in amped-up flavours, with chefs Ben Cooper and Graeme Hunt pushing each dish to the point of sensory overload.

Start somewhere safe, like the kingfish sashimi drizzled in lime and fresh coconut cream, then work your way up to the short rib with herbs and prik nahm pla dressing or the wok-tossed prawn and egg noodles slicked in hellfire chilli oil. When you think you’re ready to face the full force of flavour, go the barramundi and crispy pork salad – a face-slapping combo of hot, salty, sweet and sour. Dial it down at any time with the honeyed yoghurt and cucumber batons or the coconut sago pudding for dessert. The wine list is well priced and far-reaching, but with quaffable drops on tap, it’s hard to go past a carafe.