It’s been the most eagerly anticipated opening of the year and Chin Chin Sydney, just like the original, is overflowing with exuberance, energy and young people out for a good night.

Queuing three-deep to get in, they’re bending the arm in GoGo Bar then heading into the restaurant for a boisterously banging feed. Chin Chin is housed in the 100-year-old heritage-listed Griffiths Teas Building and designer George Livissianis’s rustic palate of whitewashed exposed beams, blonde timbers, marble, stainless steel, exposed brick and pendant lighting lets the crowd, food and staff colour the space.

Group executive chef Ben Cooper and Graeme Hunt’s Thai-inspired South-East Asian smorgasbord offers generous portions and varying degrees of spice – mild to scud chilli death sauce. There’s little ‘somethings’, stirfries, rice and noodles, curries, salads and vegetables and a new barbecue and rotisserie section. Isaan duck larb has a quality kick of spice.

Pork belly is bang on – crisp crackling and wobbly flesh but the death sauce should be consumed in moderation. King salmon smeared in coconut red curry is delicately cooked in banana leaf, but the absolute must-order is the barbecue chicken swimming in a chilli oil – it’s the gas.

Chin Chin Sydney reminds us that a night out is as much about fun as it is sating your appetite.

Must-eat dish: Isaan style spicy hot BBQ chicken, chilli sauce and shallot nahm prik
Instagram: @chinchin