Named after the Woollahra garden it graces, Matt Moran’s Chiswick is Sydney’s answer to the Hamptons. It’s as crisp a fit-out as they come – white bentwood chairs surrounded by white-panelled windows looking out to a pristine lawn – offset with the earthy tone of soumak rugs and water glasses made from repurposed green wine bottles to loosen up the space.

While the breezy dining room creates that relaxed holiday vibe, it’s the kitchen garden that calls the shots here. If it can’t grow in that garden, it won’t appear on the plate, seasonally speaking. As tiny nasturtium leaves sprout from the walls in the garden, so they too spring on to the plate.

The menu is exciting for its impeccable display of best-in-class ingredients. Steak tartare, the darling of Sydney’s small plates right now, appears with proper salted and transparent potato crisps for scooping. It’s a most perfect dish.

Ricotta dumplings could do with a little more cooking, but the accompanying native greens and lemon add such an earthy freshness you want the dumplings as a vehicle to simply mop the sauce right up. It’s hard to go past the lamb. Bring friends, bring family, bring whoever you can to justify the order, because Moran Family lamb shoulder, slow-roasted so it’s falling from the bone, doused generously with vibrant green salsa, is one of the best dishes in Sydney.

Must eat dish: Moran Family lamb shoulder, zucchini, mint, lemon
Instagram: @chiswickwoollahra