From the culinary prowess of Sokyo’s Chase Kojima and Lee Ho Fook’s Victor Liong comes a brand of fusion that’s been formulated over generations. Chuuka is based on chuka, the Japanese term for the cuisine found in Chinese restaurants that has been adapted to suit Japanese tastes. It’s essentially an amalgamation of Cantonese and Japanese and although it’s not the first time we’ve seen it on menus in Australia (Hamish Ingham of Bar H in Surry Hills had a chuka-style menu), this rendition is one you need to get on board with – the views are insane, the service is fun and the food is electric.

Housed in the former home of Flying Fish and owned by The Star Entertainment Group, it’s in the stunning heritage-listed end of Jones Bay Wharf, with breathtaking views of Sydney harbour. There’s an outdoor bar at the entrance, a mezzanine level, raw bar and private dining rooms. The dark furnishings and huge murals of dragons and Koi by tattoo artist Deepak Munsami add energy and enthusiasm to the room in equal measure, matching the exclamations of flavour on the plate.

The drinks list is approachable, with global quaffables, stunning sakes and a swag of cocktails – lead by the signature Five Chinese elements cocktails list. Liong and Kojima’s menu is delightful, delivered with a deft touch. Scallop and tuna sashimi is served with pickled sansho (Japanese pepper), infused soy and julienne cucumber. Soft, silky and a little spicy, ‘Bang Bang chicken’ gets a citrus kick from yuzu kosho, numbing joy from Sichuan chilli oil and a refreshing salad tumble with sisho leaves. Chuuka signature Ma Po tofu veers left of tradition with a vegetarian spin where agedashi tofu, yuba and silken tofu wade in a sundried tomato mapo sauce.