Take CicciaBella, the new Bondi Italian osteria by restaurateur Maurice Terzini. Set in the former site of his Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta, Terzini has corralled the culinary nous of Mitch Orr (ACME) and grape-juice-guru James Hird (Icebergs Group Sommelier) for a trio with CVs as strong as any, and a healthy confidence to match.

Terzini is like a cyclone, or more precisely, the calm within it. The man behind Icebergs’ Dining Room, The Dolphin Hotel, and Bondi Beach Public Bar has the presence of someone with a unique handle on the world spinning at great speeds around him. But open the door to any of his restaurants and he will welcome you with the warm confidence of a man who knows not only how to deliver a great experience for diners, but one that dares to take them out of their comfort zone a little, too.

CicciaBella is a far darker and brooding proposition than Da Orazio, with an energetic disco-meets-post-punk playlist by Picnic Touring’s Carly Roberts setting the tone. There’s textured used-wood panelling, rippled black metal, hanging tie-dyed cloths, letters etched into concrete pylons, terracotta walls and dim lighting and you can sit at the bar, kitchen counter or on banquettes.

The wine, and indeed cocktail list, is a cracker. A champion of minimum-intervention wines, the humble Hird veers us towards Italy with a Guttarolo Verdeca from Puglia he describes as “like a chardonnay with a mullet”, but eventually, we opt for the rumbling red thunder of an Antoniotti Pramartel which, according to Hird is “a bit heavy at first, like ‘Master of Puppets’ (by Metallica) but like the album, once you’re in it’s a brilliantly smooth ride.” That might not sound appetising for some, but it had me securing my seatbelt and ready to swirl and sip.

In the kitchen, chef Mitch Orr, forever the over-confident kid, has built a career on undeniable talent and a willingness to test your tolerance with tongue-in-cheek creations. But here, Orr’s maturity is like standing beneath the warm sun breaking through clouds. No tricks, no culinary gags, just beautifully cooked southern Italian that’s pretty hard to fault.

The long antipasti offering includes bright green broad beans and edamame in a puddle of olive oil; yellowfin tuna tartare tossed with Calabrian chilli, or gremolata-topped bone marrow – all of which are completely delightful with a light garlic pizza fritte fresh out of the pizza oven. Pasta, Orr’s strong suit, takes things up a notch. Blistered cherry tomatoes get an umami oomph from shaved bottarga that’s tossed through just-cooked linguine. It’s a dish I regularly do at home, but have to tip my hat to Orr’s rendition. To follow: sheets of maltagliati match shredded braised rabbit with pistachio.

Like Da Orazio, CicciaBella still does pizzas, but here they are much smaller pizzette. Thin, blistered, smoky and malleable, the puttanesca (olive, tomato, chilli) is just perfect and you’ll be hard pressed to not order another – if so, the ‘nduja, olive and mozzarella is where to go. For mains, there’s New Zealand flounder, pork chop or a charred and blushing Riverina Angus flank – delightful on its own, but served atop an intense cafe cucina butter that some will love, others not so much. We finish with a no-frills but refreshingly fun macadamia semifreddo with coconut and mango.

Sure it’s brash, loud, and the bathrooms are darker than a moonless night in the Outback – so it might not be for everyone. But for those drawn in, it’s a whirlwind of good times, great food and cracking wine. More importantly, there’s that perfect storm of confidence, talent and experience that puts CicciaBella in the realms of one of the best openings of the year.