Fear rippled through Sydney when the Barangaroo complex was announced. Surely this was going to be an extension of Darling Harbour: a prime waterside location drawing in blissfully oblivious tourists for overpriced and underwhelming food?

But then Efendy’s Somer Sivrioglu brought in Anason; Melbourne’s Morgan McGlone took up shop with his famed Belle’s Hot Chicken; Hamish Ingham expanded from Bar H to Banksii. And then there was Cirrus. The city breathed a collective sigh of relief.

When chef Brent Savage and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt announced they were taking a spot down at newly developed Barangaroo, there was no further doubt that this would be a dining destination worlds apart from the harbour locals love to hate. With Bentley, Yellow and Monopole firmly established in their stable, we were ready to book. A year on and the duo‘s newest venue has reached such an outstanding level, it’s taken the gold for their group in the delicious. 100.

Sustainably sourced seafood is the focus at Cirrus and Savage lets the quality of his produce do the talking throughout the menu. Fish fingers hark back to childhood memories by the beach, but the grown-up version at Cirrus is paired with salted cucumber and a citrus spark of preserved lemon. King prawns are simply roasted and doused in house-made XO sauce, while grilled marron is boosted by the Japanese condiment du jour yuzu kosho and finger lime. A limited choice of red meat including beef and lamb ensures the die-hard carnivores aren’t disappointed.

Arguably the best location in the complex, all huge curved windows, natural light and blond wood tables punctuated by darker accents, the Pascale Gomes-McNabb-designed space is complemented by efficient but relaxed service that makes this a truly pleasant place to eat.

It would be remiss not to mention the wine list; joint-owner Hildebrandt is one of Australia’s most-awarded sommeliers and it’s no surprise to see an exciting, lengthy wine list here that is built around Savage’s food.

Clever dishes focusing on sustainability rather than fuss, a contemporary wine list and an inviting waterfront location: eating at Cirrus is living the dining dream.

Must eat dish: Roasted king prawns and house-made XO
Instagram: @cirrus_dining