Shimmering at the end of Barangaroo wharf, Cirrus is an iconic dining destination. The finesse, creativity and skill of Brent Savage and his chefs is hard to fault, and alongside sommelier Nick Hildebrandt, supported by restaurant manager Abi Mullen, this team is an absolute force to be reckoned with.

Start with a glistening selection of south coast rock oysters at their seasonal peak, before exploring a menu underpinned by seafood that is a true testament to Savage’s expertise. A sheet of pearlescent raw scampi is served dotted with native beads of finger lime and wafers of salted radish. It’s bold without being bolshie, ingredients carefully selected to complement each other. A mosaic-style terrine of latchet (firm white flesh fish, a bit like a cod) and potato is ribboned with nori sheets, a luscious seaweed mustard alongside, with a vinegary daikon pickle to cut through.

WA marron is silky, bathed in mellifluous sea urchin butter. Drizzled with mandarin oil, it’s classy, perfectly cooked and Instagrammable, to boot. Ocean trout and beetroot reads 2004 on the menu but blows the 2019 table away in originality, flavour and presentation. Ocean trout rillettes sits on a bed of barely-smoked beetroot dusted in pepperberry and beetroot powder. The dish proves there’s a reason for classic flavour pairings.

Mullen is quick to offer interesting, refreshing wines pairings, moving from bright, energetic rieslings to richer Sicilian orange wines. They’re great drinking wines that stand up to, but don’t overpower, the food. In contrast to Savage’s other, more subtle and sophisticated dishes, the signature roasted tiger prawns deliver a flavour punch, drenched in fermented chilli and sweet Thai basil. When you’ve finished picking your way through the smaller plates, seafood continues to stand out in the main courses, like a whole flounder barbecued until just opaque. The flesh pulls away from the skeleton and leaves the meat satisfyingly dripping in smoky mussel butter.

The finale is a triumphant layered chocolate cake filled with tonka bean cream and finished with chewy caramel.

Sometimes you just have to put the spoon down, but with an experience this flawless, it’s no mean feat.