It’s been operating for just over two months but already the latest addition from restaurateur dynamos Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt has consolidated its position as Sydney’s best new seafood restaurant.

Located in the blue-chip spot previously inhabited by Rene Redzepi’s Noma pop-up, Cirrus is wowing diners with world-class, sustainable seafood dishes like North Queensland mudcrab, steamed and served with a parsley-green sauce of tarragon and green garlic along with house-made brioche.

There’s an elegant, Japanese-inspired kingfish served with folds of daikon pickled in yuzu. It’s served with a black bean sauce infused with coriander, ginger and garlic.

For fish lovers, the standout is a generous slab of Murray cod, roasted in paperbark and dressed in native spices.

And, possibly best of all, a seafood platter loaded with Skull Island prawns, bugs, strawberry clams and pipis with a sensational dipping sauce of seaweed mayonnaise ponzu.

This is grown-up food for serious seafood lovers — albeit with serious money to spend.

Must eat: Mudcrab with tarragon and green garlic