Some people I know like to see the dessert menu before ordering a restaurant meal – making sure they leave room. That said, I’m a firm believer in the “second” or “dessert stomach”, always able to accommodate something sweet no matter how savoury-sated you might feel. But I digress… And only because I’m still thinking about the sage and burnt-butter ice cream at Civico 47. With little squares of brioche. And Davidson plum and rhubarb. And a musky, herbal fragrance through the milky-sweet scoop in the centre. Fabulous. Make sure you leave room.

It’s hard to be inventive with Italian cooking. And in Paddington, with Italian offerings on every second street, it’s even harder to stand out from the crowd. Not least when you’ve taken on a legacy space from a legendary restaurateur – yes, the one and only Lucio Galletto of Lucio’s, a 40-year institution. But chef Matteo Zamboni is giving it a go. Not only with his sage-flavoured dessert (a pointer to his north-Italian heritage) but with his sparing but skilful use of interesting flavours and ingredients.

Civico (pronounced Chee-vee-co) is a formal Italian reference to a house number. So here we are at Number 47. It’s all bright and light, natural woods, white walls and plates to match, rust-coloured banquettes and a few Italian seaside scene photos for decoration.

There’s much that’s familiar on the menu – from homemade focaccia to kingfish crudo and ricotta ravioli. A braised octopus entrée recalls the classic sweet and sour notes of Venice. Or Sicily. But almost every dish has a little twist that lifts it from predictable to pleasurable.

Those ravioli – in really good fresh pasta casings – pair up with capsicum, black garlic and a dusting of burnt leek. Another pasta dish comes with bok choy. There’s zucchini with yoghurt and ponzu. And a slightly odd-sounding chuck tail flap (well, it is the name of the cut) translates into jus-glazed, charry-outside-pink-inside meat slices with peppers and a little celery, softened with dates. All terrific. Italian in intention, inventive in execution.

You’d say the same for sides like juicy, charred corn tickled with pickled (mustard) plum, and a green leaf salad with pumpkin seeds and dark pumpkin-seed oil… Seasonal and enjoyable – Italian but not quite.

There’s a fine wine list – lots of interesting Italian varietals and a friendly sommelier who knows his stuff. The vibe is relaxed and friendly and you can greet chef Matteo in the kitchen as you walk in – or out of – the navy-blue front door, still with its old-school curved awning, swirled plaster exterior and brass name plate.

Matteo Zamboni has a strong track record, from some serious Italian restaurants like three Michelin-starred La Pergola in Rome to Sydney icons, Pilu at Freshwater and Jonah’s at Whale Beach. It’s lovely to see him delivering his spin on well-loved classics, using quality ingredients and imagination. All power to him and his team. Head to their place – Number 47 Windsor Street – and enjoy!

Oh, and don’t forget dessert. The artisan gelato scoops are great too.

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