Nestled among the swathe of small suburban businesses lies quite an unassuming, inspiring notion of the local neighbourhood restaurant. Clove Lane has all the hallmarks of a quality suburban restaurant, but there’s something special about it.

Behind white sheer curtains covering floor-to-ceiling windows is a sharp, minimalist design where attention to detail is quite apparent. From the dark grey marble bar top, to copper pendant lighting, exposed brick walls, white timbers and wooden alfresco benches, it’s smart without pushing the whole sophisticated swagger so much so that it loses its reliable neighbourhood sentiment.

There’s a lovely overriding sense from the moment you step inside that you want to return with friends – even before you’ve sampled the food. Owner and co-head chef Emile Avramides has created quite an exceptional eatery. Whether it’s the smiling welcome, the eat-at bar, the casual, caring cache of staff, or the relaxed open kitchen where together with co-head chef Michael Tran, Avramides and his brigade calmly take care of business. And it shows, with a real considered touch to their craft and a commitment to utilise best in class, seasonal produce, too.

Although not every dish is a hit for six, they are all beautifully executed. The sweet pepperberry overtones of young basil add freshness to stracciatella. Caramelised onion and torn purslane accompany just-cooked strips of southern calamari – plated with artfully mastery. A wedge of confit fennel and sweet bursts of golden raisins help underpin the salty, meatiness of crisp-skinned Ulladulla blue mackerel, while roasted pine nuts add a delightful bite to collapsed zucchini.

Clove Lane has drawn a line in the sand for what is expected, or perhaps possible for serious suburban dining without the ego of exclusivity.