When this basement diner opened in 2009, its ‘mod Asian’ moniker sounded decidedly exotic but Coda doesn’t need that descriptor anymore. Its ever-changing dishes, devised by peripatetic chef Adam D’Sylva, slip between culinary boundaries like those long boats you see in Vietnam – here a Javanese curry, there a Saigon cutlet with French accents (pomme frites and fromage) along the way.

Coda’s XO fried rice – hot out of the wok with abalone and chives – is cold-day comfort food; blackened quail with witlof and celery just made for summer nights. And the crispy tapioca and prawn betel leaf with kaffir lime and green chilli? Enjoy it year round.

The $65 set menu is both a cost-saver and a snapshot of Coda at its best. Service? Spot on. Especially if you’re propped at the bar and getting the benefit of real booze knowledge.

Must Eat Dish: Goolwa pipis, soy butter, dill and bottarga