There are many reasons why Coda remains, after almost nine years, one of the city’s busiest restaurants with reservations going only to the organised. It’s a good thing they take walk-ins at the bar.

The subterranean space is dark and cool – the room looks as downright sexy today as it did back when it was first laid – with music played just loud enough to make 40-something folks feel like they’ve still got it without stifling conversation.

Razor sharp staff, who expertly guide you from welcome through wine to coats and farewells at the door, keep the food coming, the mood light and the water and wine flowing. It’s an impressive supporting act for the mod-ish Indochinese fare from the kitchen.

Rosy pink quail encrusted in a cinnamon-heady case sets the fingers-are-forks tone that crisp prawn and chilli betel leaves, or lettuce leaves filled with shiitake mushrooms, lap cheong and water chestnuts, continue.

Real, hot Chinese mustard cuts through sticky beef ribs with purpose, and what the duck larb might lack in heat, it certainly makes up for with its rich peanut texture.

Sure, the zucchini fritters might be as authentic as a Chanel handbag bought at a Hanoi nightmarket, but they are all sorts of delicious and remain a rock-solid staple on the menu. Newer additions are destined for equal longevity, with the Beijing chicken an instant classic. Tender, crisp and juicy, a plum sauce with a citrus bite and chilli-dusted cucumber complete a winner winner chicken dinner.

Polished, professional and perfectly poised, Coda reveals her anti-aging secret.

Must eat dish: Beijing chicken
Instagram: @codamelbourne