This Warhol-esque cocktail in a can neatly introduced Continental’s appeal – small but mighty. Seven years and a CBD outpost later, the two-storey bar-meets-deli founded by Elvis Abrahanowicz, Joe Valore, Jesse Warkentin and Michael Nicolian remains a beloved inner-west hangout.

Downstairs, cured meats and garlic garlands dangle from the tall bar, and mellow hip hop floats down speakers. A housebatched Can-hatten delivers rich coffee undertones; the iconic martini is for those who like theirs dirty. The well-curated wine list hones in on France, Italy and Spain. The bistro menu has a similar European inflection, from grass-fed steak tartare with golden pommes gaufrette and a cloud of Parmigiano-Reggiano to fish of the day (such as delicate bream on a wholesome tomato risotto).

The menu flip side is dedicated to conservas, charcuterie and cheese – think Cantabrian anchovies with pickled peppers or saucisson sec from local mates LP’s. For dessert, the silken Cangnac parfait is coaxed, quivering, from its can, topped with crunchy praline. Like northern hemisphere boltholes it pays homage to, the distinction between bistro and bar is fluid, as diners linger over drinks long after their plates are cleared. 

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