Restaurateur Paul McGivern has always managed to keep things at his venues grounded; interesting but not too alien, always wine friendly, and always impeccably run.

And that is certainly the case at his latest — Corella. It ticks all the boxes in a seemingly effortless way, and it has that increasingly rare attribute of accepting BYO … on Wednesday nights.

To arrive with vino, though, would be a shame, as it would mean missing out on the terrific, pinot-centric, well-priced wine list that — while not particularly big — covers all the ground that needs to be covered in an insightful way.

A contemporary menu favouring European influences makes for really smart bistro fare with just a hint of kitchen skulduggery — pared back and singing with good technique.

There’s a brilliant kangaroo tartare — aggressively seasoned but pleasantly so; lamb neck cooked into submission with pumpkin and oregano, and a terrific piece of wagyu classically paired with potato gratin.

Desserts offer a little more trickery, with a macadamia parfait, for instance, boasting quenelles of citrus sorbet, eggs of mandarin granita, and parfait to the side.

The theatre all happens in a nicely gloomy room on the ground level of a new apartment block in Woolloongabba, as approachable and slick as the food that leaves its open kitchen.