It might share a name (and address) with one of Melbourne’s most famous and perennially popular restaurants, but make no mistake, when you climb the stairs to Cumulus Up., a very different world awaits.

Where star chef and restaurateur Andrew McConnell’s Cumulus Inc. is light and bright, Up is his dark and sexy Melbourne wine bar, done right.

The menu is designed to match the design-forward Euro-luxe space. Fluffy, oil-drizzled rosemary focaccia served in a cast iron pan is hot on the heels of glass of Clare Valley Vanguardist Riesling from the extensive and worldly, yet well-priced drinks list.

Snacks, such as fat, fried langos (a Hungarian specialty of fried dough) topped with confit trout, and tarragon-spiked beef tartare, are delivered with the same aplomb as mains, including hefty steaks and pillowy ricotta dumplings in brown butter.

McConnell’s skill as marrying new and old is on show in an inventive witflof dish with blood sausage and smoked hazelnuts followed by a textbook classic custard tart dusted with nutmeg and redolent of nostalgia.

And then there is, of course, the ‘duck waffle’ – a crunchy, confit duck-filled base on which foie gras parfait is piped, that remains a Melbourne icon for its decadent deliciousness and snackability with a glass of wine.

When it comes to Cumulus, it’s up and away.

Must-eat dish: Duck waffle
Instagram: @cumulusup