Andrew McConnell’s flagship fine diner looks better than ever, a recent makeover delivering a candlelit vision of dark, opulent, sexy Fitzroy to match the unstoppable Melbourne chef/restaurateur’s menu.

Along with the new look, a reinstated front bar is the opening act where abundant platters of fruits de mere and Champagne rest on ice like a still-life painting, beckoning you to aperitivo. After your abalone katsu sandwich and Lillet blanc vermouth, head through the archways of black-framed glass to a gleaming dining room, resplendent with green marble, curvaceous Art Deco booths and metallic feature lighting.

Pigeon is blistered until crisp and served with seared duck liver and torched fig under a sheath of melting jamon Iberico. It’s a game dish at once clever, unapologetic and completely delicious coming from the Chris Watson-helmed kitchen.

Refinement comes in many forms, whether a kingfish crudo with pickled radish and fresh wasabi, a blueberry vacherin with razor sharp blackberry sorbet, or indeed a simple zucchini flower flattened and fried crisp.

Mains are as luxurious and abundant – macadamia cream and wilted spinach are the simple accompaniments allowing an excellent veal to shine; crisp and softly rendered suckling pig has its richness countered by sweet and soured baby onions. It’s cooking that’s refined yet approachable and plays to its audience.

Liam O’Brien’s wine list remains an opera of considered beauty that’s aware of trends without being enslaved by them, and has great drinking at every level, plus a fantastic selection of wines by the glass.

Cutler reborn is an instant classic years in the making, with the McConnell empire’s signature design-forward approach and pan-everything flavours.

Must eat dish: Pigeon
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