Despite the length and breadth of the Brisbane River, there are surprisingly few restaurants with water frontage.

So when a rare-as-hen’s-teeth position along its banks is available, an eatery should make the most of it.

Cutty Sark is the latest venue to be given this priceless opportunity and is succeeding with mixed results.

Taking over from long-time player Aqualinea in trendy Teneriffe, the place has been given a minor makeover. A bright, modern indoor space opens onto a paved courtyard where the river view takes centre stage.

Seafood dominates the menu, given a Spanish and Mediterranean spin. Think grilled octopus with pimento aioli, mussels in saffron, garlic and tomato, and marinated anchovies.

Tapas dishes act as entrees, and oregano meatballs in a sweet tomato and capsicum chutney are a tasty, if predictable, crowd pleaser. Crispy calamari, meanwhile, would benefit from ditching the dry breadcrumbs.

Paella is a centrepiece to the menu, with the choice of chicken and chorizo, seafood or Mediterranean vegetables, all designed to share.

Though missing the customary socarrat, (the crust on the bottom of the pan), our seafood version was a perfectly fine rendition of the Spanish classic, bursting with fresh prawns and mussels (though not much else).

Other mains tick off the major proteins, but a lamb dish featuring a well-spiced vegetable pisto and dots of creamy ajo blanco is let down by the meat spending too long on the grill.

The refreshing coconut, pineapple and mango chilled rice pudding is the pick of the desserts, delivered by one of the enthusiastic waitstaff.

With an overhaul of the wine list, adding some extra varieties, this riverside newbie would be an ideal spot for a long lunch or afternoon tapas and drinks.