Some like it hot. The good folk of Sichuan in southwest China certainly do, inflaming their distinctive hotpots and stews with the smouldering burn of dried chillies, garlic, vinegar and peppercorns.

Dainty Sichuan flies the flag for this coveted regional cuisine in Melbourne and has done so since 2003. But its big, bustling base in South Yarra, spread across two gaudily decorated dining rooms, is not just about all things incendiary.

Plough into Dainty’s supersized laminated menus – full of gleaming colour snaps – and you’ll find gentler fare: finely pleated Chinese dumplings plump with pork; deliciously dry, seasoned Sichuan duck; and a soothing cold noodle combo. Order the lot and challenge yourself not to wipe the plates clean.

Now, time to get the fire started with Dainty’s addictive lamb-rib stew (rated two chillies on the menu legend), which lands at the table in a bubbling cauldron. It’s a mighty serve – in fact every plate here seems to be generously heaped – with silky noodles lurking in the mix.

Quench the heat with Chinese tea or a foamy ale. Dainty’s keen waitstaff are also offering an improved wine list these days.

Then settle back and plan your next value-for-money Dainty experience. The Chongqing chilli chicken awaits.

Must-eat dish: Lamb-rib stew
Instagram: @daintysichuan