Danjee’s menu is big and the service a bit haphazard, so the first-timer might be ploughing ahead on their own. But even if you’re not sure what you’re ordering, you can bet it will be good.

Take the ice-cold yuk hwae – Korean tartare – a precise nest of beef topside with raw yolk, cucumber and nashi. The galbi jjim is also a good order, tender (not quite gelatinous) braised beef rib in a soy stock with gingko nuts. So, too, the Danjee fried chicken — crisp and not oily. That fire chicken is a must, it’s a deep red and hot from chilli and gochujang, with cheese melted over. Best followed with Korean tea to soothe the palate.

Must eat: Bul Dak