The Cube might be accused of placing winemaker Chester Osborn’s wacky style over substance if it were not for the food produced by a state-of-the-art kitchen that even comes equipped with a 3D printer.

An excursion downstairs to the trippy loos provides a chance for a quick detour to watch the chefs, led by husband-and-wife team Brendan Wessels and Lindsay Durr, at work through a large window.

In the dining room Jumanji meets the Mad Hatter with tribal masks and harlequin chairs, and a rusty mower and giant ant dangling among the d’arenberg cube restaurir conditioning ducts.

Even the menu has a silly name – Sisypheanic Euphoria – but the views are great, the food seriously good and the friendly team on song.

The meal begins with a riff on Heston Blumenthal’s famous meat fruit; in this instance foie gras in a tawny port jelly fashioned to look like grapes. Kingfish on a charcoal base deep fried twice is brilliant, as is smoked eel and foie gras mousse inside a chocolate biscuit resting on a pillow…a weird Oreo and perfect for those squeamish about eel.

Paper-thin slices of Mayura wagyu with a compressed cucumber pickle is about as normal as it gets.

Elsewhere there’s seaweed waffles, chicken skin butter and family doyen d’Arry Osborn’s favourite lemon meringue pie deconstructed and reimagined using that printer.

Some may scoff at this style of culinary trickery, but for those prepared to go down the rabbit hole, the Cube can indeed be a wonderland.