But the winery’s original restaurant, d’Arry’s Verandah, continues to be booked out weeks in advance. Nowadays, the dining room has spilt into the original cellar door (tastings are now in The Cube), which boasts warm timbers and a crackling fireplace on cooler days.

Chef Peter Reschke and his FOH (front of house) wife Jo struck a winning formula here long ago. Service is professional, but not stiff. Food is generous and well-executed.

Lobster ravioli remains the star of the show, the tender raviolo of minced prawn in a puddle of bisque so deeply satisfying in crustacean flavour you’ll want to lick the plate. The crowning glory, a lobster medallion, is worth the $15 surcharge. Mains cater for all tastes, from the barramundi in yuzu broth to blushing slices of duck breast with punchy XO beans. A sweet bun filled with shredded duck leg is a belly-filling bonus. Staff will happily suggest wine, or there are spirits and cocktails.

For something sweet, a chunky pistachio and orange parfait is the highlight of an orange custard doughnut dessert. Or perhaps opt for petits fours with a nip of the d’Arry’s sticky.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.