Start with nibbles or bar food, like pissaladiere or frites – or opt for more substantial entrees from the starters/salad list. The goat’s cheese tart is a revelation – creamy dollops of goat cheese on a sensationally light pastry disc, with just enough salad and dressing to cut through the richness. The bowl of goodness which is the salad nicoise gets a tick for rivalling the “real thing” from a diner just returned from Nice.

Mains tend to the fleshy side – from the pot or pan, but there are vegetarian options. Steak frites, pork sausages and beef cheeks are generous and filling, perfectly accompanied by the classic French brown sauces and mustard. Sausages are elevated to haute cuisine, perfectly spiced bundles of pork lounging on a delicate bed of mash. A side of salad or greens here is recommended.

Daily specials include favourites like duck cassoulet. The dessert menu features favourites like madeleines updated with citrus or crème brulee. A brioche ice cream is a creamy, salty caramel triumph with toasty crumbs.

The wine list is as interesting and well devised as you would expect. Bravo!