The Indian kebab is one of Sydney’s most sacred late night eats. Many a happy evening has been spent on the pavement outside Indian Home Diner in Paddington clutching the famed foiled wrap kebab known only as Number Five. Chicken tikka, onion bhaji and cheesy garlic naan – there’s nothing this holy trinity can’t fix.

And now there’s a new version in town. Derrel’s in Camperdown is dishing up Kolkata-style kathi rolls until two in the morning.

The subcontinental snack is made with either a spicy minced lamb seekh skewer or charcoal-grilled tandoori chicken wrapped with hot chips and chutney in flaky paratha bread. Get an Uber if you have to. This is one wrap worth planning your whole night around.

Derrel’s is a new Indian eatery from Public Hospitality Group, the team behind El Primo Sanchez, Maybe Sammy, and The Lady Hampshire hotel, which it shares a wall with on Parramatta Rd.

Heading up the kitchen is former Baba’s Place chef Brendan King. The eatery takes its inspiration from King’s Anglo-Indian background and specifically, his grandfather Derrel. Dezza is the kind of bloke who makes tandoori chicken wings for his grandchildren and likes to sink a few VBs in front of the cricket.

The fit-out, which was a collaboration between Public Hospitality and Baba’s Place Creative, is modelled off a British “caff” – a small, familiar coffee shop that offers simple, affordable food.

The retro-inspired space has a canteen feel. Laminated tables in soft mango shades are topped with chutney bottles and vintage copies of the Women’s Weekly, which also double as menu holders. Photos, memorabilia and faded signage add a homely, lived-in feel.

Read the Weekly or simply waltz up to the bain marie and see what’s cooking for yourself. It’s usually a choice of three slow-simmered curries and golden pakora parcels. While you’re there, help yourself to an Indian soft drink (there’s Limca and Thums Up) from the self-serve refreshment fridge. For something stronger, you can BYO from Camperdown Cellars across the road.

King is big on pavs – not the dessert, but the bread – a soft, puffy dinner roll that’s a staple in Mumbai. Double down on your complex carbs with the vada pav, a streetfood snack made from a mini ghee-fried milk bun filled with an aloo potato patty dribbled in punchy green chilli chutney. You’ll soon be big on pavs too.

Curries are served Thali-style from a retro rectangular meal tray. The butter chicken is marinated in spices overnight, before hitting the charcoal grill for those crispy blackened bits. It’s then soaked in a rich masala-spiced sauce that’s warming enough to warrant a raita on the side. Turmeric-spiced rice, blistered roti paratha, raw onion, herbs and chutney round out the perfect square meal.

As for dessert, don’t miss Derrel’s favourite – flaky paratha bread spread with warm, gooey Nutella. King’s grandmother contributes a dish too and it’s something nanas are known for – the Coke Float, which has been reimagined here with cardamom-spiced cola topped with vanilla ice cream from the tub.

Head back to the Lady Hampshire for a few beers, and then you’ll be almost ready for the kathi roll.