Elegance. With a stunning fit-out blending pale timber and exposed brick detailing to create warmth, the charm of the heritage building’s rich history, knowledgeable and attentive staff who glide around the stylish modern furniture laying out exquisite crockery and cutlery and serving guests, elegance perhaps best sums up this inner suburban eatery. And it’s an adjective equally befitting of chef-owner Damon Amos’ food.

Dedicated to catering to dietary requirements, he has created a half omnivore, half herbivore menu, with no gluten on site.

While meat-lovers may lean towards the omnivore section, it’s the vegetarian offerings where Amos’ talents truly shine. Take coal-roasted broccoli, marinated in miso with wilted spinach, a flutter of quinoa and shreds of seaweed – a truly inspired combination. As is the carrot dish – the mix of ribbons, roasted hunks and a “fossilised” whole root, sweet and textured with chia seeds and a smoked almond crumb.

Not to be forgotten though is the salmon – crusted with a salty gunpowder blend and served with black ants and a green curry cream. It’s as clever as it is kooky.

A smart, boutique wine list rounds out a sublime package worth many a detour for a return visit.

Must-eat dish: Coal-roasted broccoli
Instagram: @detourrestaurant