There couldn’t be a more fitting name for Damon Amos’s new restaurant in Woolloongabba than Detour.

The first solo venture for the star chef, formerly executive chef at Public, was supposed to open in July last year, but issues with the heritage-listed building meant that he faced a host of diversions.

The unbearably long wait, however, has been worth it. The space is simply stunning. Pale timber and exposed brick create warmth and charm, evoking the building’s rich history, while stylish, modern furniture and exquisite crockery, cutlery and glassware take it into the contemporary.

The delays seem to have also given Amos the time to find just the right staff – knowledgeable and attentive.

But perhaps the biggest benefit can be seen in the food. Amos’s vision was to offer a half vegan menu, free of gluten to cater to dietary requirements. The delay has meant he’s been able to truly refine each dish.

The coal-roasted broccoli, for example, is inspired. Children would never fear the green veg if it was always served like this – miso-marinated with wilted spinach, a flutter of quinoa and shreds of seaweed for a punchy umami hit. Carrots are treated with equal love and attention – with a mix of ribbons, roasted chunks and a “fossilised” whole carrot, sweet and textured with chia seeds and a smoked almond crumb.

The achingly tender wagyu brisket is designed to be wrapped at the table into accompanying tortillas with corn salsa, black beans, sour cream and a hot sauce so good it should be sold separately. But the hero is the salmon – crusted with a salty gunpowder blend and served with black ants and a green curry cream. It’s as wonderful as it is wacky.

A smart wine list rounds out a package worth many a return visit.