The chef’s patented Kentucky Fried Duck is so good it survives menu changes in the “omnivore” section. Crumbed in a piquant spice mix, the duck leg is moist and perfectly pink, and dressed with a side of chilli flecked sour cream and jalapeño corn bread. The industrial chic interior in this historic building in the quiet, cul-de-sac neck of Logan Road is a fitting backdrop to food that is rustic but a bit edgy, and best shared.

Cured kingfish, richly marinated in gin, with sesame biscuit chards and crunchy black ants is a textural winner, while scallops with pork belly is refreshed with curls of fennel and juicy leek. From the “herbivore” half of the menu, the smoked pumpkin is as close to perfect as this gourd gets. Generous chunks of soft pumpkin are dusted with crushed pepitas and dotted with maple honeycomb. Roasted cauliflower is resplendent in a rich cashew curry with lentils. Desserts are also out of the ordinary, with a nitro meringue made with chickpea brine rather than egg whites arriving smoking and adorned with fresh and frozen berries and yuzu curd pearls. The wine list is unashamedly Australian, with an excellent range by the glass, and the service is casual yet efficient.

Exceptional dish: KFD, Kentucky Fried duck, rolled in a special spice mix and deep fried