It doesn’t fit any preconceived ideas of upscale Milan eateries, with racy red leather seats and visual artist Reko Rennie’s looped projections beaming onto polished concrete walls. But why would it? The super-slick site has been feeding the city’s deep pockets since 2019, but a few things have changed.

Star maitre d’ Chris Young has left, with Mallory Wall and crew filling the gaps. A lockdown set menu still replaces the usual a la carte, fashioned to feed the dine-and-dash or buckle-in-boozer crowds.

Speaking of bars, Città’s long marble masterpiece is a prime supplier of negronis or Di Stasio’s own Mornington Peninsula-grown pinot noir.

Did someone say snacks? Perhaps a plate of sunny tagliatelle heaped with fluffy crabmeat (pro tip: all pasta comes in half-serves) or standout sweet, plump scallops buried beneath a buttery rubble of parmesan breadcrumbs. Or lean into winter sloth mode with a glossy, fall-apart beef cheek resting on creamy polenta.

Come for soul-warming fare, stay for the show. A masterpiece. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.