This philosophy makes Annie Smithers’ charming Trentham 25-seater feel less like a fine diner and more like a cosy country homestead, albeit one that books out months in advance. 

Smithers can be seen flitting between tables, explaining each ingredient’s provenance in the French provincial dishes she is famed for. Produce is plucked from her Lyonville farm and there’s no menu, but trust that every element is garden-fresh and likely a sustainable choice that didn’t journey far.

Melt-in-your-mouth pork terrine comes flecked with pistachios and a prune heart, with bitter leaves, home-pickled cornichons and a squirt of mustard cutting through the fat. A buttery Alsatian onion tart with Meredith Dairy chevre showcases the kitchen’s technical ability, but it’s the main event that shines. You can smell the braised lamb shoulder before the generous share-plate arrives, ready to be shredded into decadent mouthfuls. Root veg is fork-tender, while Trentham’s famed spuds feature in a creamy dauphinoise studded with caramelised flecks.

One final extravagance sees thick, Gallic-style hot cocoa poured over a fluffy ricotta chocolate cake, elevating vanilla ice cream to a delicious ganache. It’s comfort food at its best, and well worth booking ahead for. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.