In a world where the tyranny of choice reigns supreme, there’s something completely delightful about handing over control. And when the reins are in the hands of Annie Smithers, and you are warmly ensconced in her Trentham dining room, it’s deliciously liberating to simply sit back and enjoy the ride.

The longtime champion of central Victoria, who now has a 23-acre property on which she grows produce, simply cooks what’s best from her garden on any given day, that’s when she is not travelling France for inspiration.

Some days, that will mean a platter piled high with roasted pork and lots of crisp crackle, red cabbage spiked with apple vinegar for bite, the accompanying jus mop-every-bit dry delicious. Luckily, there’s always abundant excellent house-baked bread on hand to do just that.

Earlier, you might be served sublime duck livers pan-seared with bacon and onion and served on toast, or a bowl of ham hock in a broth dancing with depth.

Afterwards, expertly treated cheese – perhaps something to go with a splash of local pinot from a wine lover’s list – might precede dessert, where the baked apple clafoutis never fails to prove a perfect full stop.

Properly generous farmhouse cooking from professionals who get hospitality served in quietly classy surrounds, Du Fermier provides treasures aplenty ‘from the farmhouse’.

Must eat dish: Roasted pork with apple vinegar red cabbage
Instagram: @kittensmithers