The prevalence of the $10 pub steak has been a blessing and a curse. Sure, it meets the tight budget if you don’t mind chewing on a rubber thong. But sadly, like Vegemite on toast, it’s often best done “your way” at home.

Even so, getting that gorgeous caramelisation, rather than burnt char, on the outside and that blushing red on the inside can be found if you go looking for it, and if you’re willing to pay for it.

Eastside Grill, the latest addition to the refurbished Kensington St rum store, is not the most enthralling proposition, but chef Stanley Wong (ex-Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Hong Kong) sure can nail a steak.

Ours, a Ranger’s Valley black angus scotch fillet, gets the sweet, clean kiss of binchotan (white Japanese) coals and arrives with a simple leaf salad.

The flame-licked flesh is the main attraction in a Japan meets New York contemporary menu of fairly fine fare.

Sweet scallop ceviche plays nicely against grapefruit and tiger’s milk (lime juice, onion, chilli). A tomato gazpacho that could stand on its own merit lands with a tumble of heirlooms and lump of stracciatella cheese. It’s good, but then a so-so succotash of bacon and corn sits next to spatchcock that’s a bit overdone. To finish, a brick-sized, New York-style cheesecake is too dry despite the pleasing berry coulis.

I’m a bit torn about the fit-out too. On the one hand I love the bar with its leather seating, dark woods and brass fixtures, but the art by street artist Caratoes feels way out of place. The other walls of simple, exposed brick are much more appealing.

The staff are proficient and the chef can cook – the place just needs a bit of pizzazz. Enthusiasm even. With a steak game this strong and a renewed fire in the belly, they could see a queue of customers wanting their flesh fix.