Melbourne has had a deep and abiding love of pizza ever since Toto’s hit Lygon St in the 60s.

These days you can get your fix along most suburban strips or at the touch of a phone, but every now and then emerges a stand-out player like Windsor newbie Eat’aliano by Pino. In a sea of pan-Asian joints, this 70-seat, Italian-infused restaurant announces itself with a cheery “ciao”.

At the woodfired oven is head chef Pino Russo of La Svolta fame. Serves are generous, service is cheeky and, despite the cheesy name and trendy industrial fitout, the food is unashamedly home-style – just how Nonna makes it.

Pasta is a good bet here, but pizza is an even better one: misshapen beauties with a chewy crust, blistered edges and interesting toppings. The tartufata features hunks of pork sausage with truffle oil and a mushroom cream for a decadent combination, but the humble margherita also shines with a less-is- more simplicity.

A warm octopus and potato salad dressed sparingly with olive oil and parsley is another example of restraint allowing ingredients to be the star. Veal osso buco comes the Milanese way with a creamy saffron risotto and an orange sauce bursting through, while a generous serve of fior di latte mozzarella crowns the Caprese salad.

To finish, tiramisu is no cliche when it’s this coffee-sharp and smooth. Nor is the excellent cannolo – crispy-shelled and filled with ricotta and roasted pistachio. Circi coffee and a Eurocentric wine list add to the appeal.

Pizza and pasta are a big deal in this Italian-hearted town and Eat’aliano should win over even the most jaded pie lover.

If you like this, try…

• North: Lievita – Explore the many daily changing pizzas that are sold by the slice in Northcote.
• East: Baby – Bustling, buzzy, all-day and night pizza and pasta in Richmond from Chris Lucas, of Chin Chin fame.
• West: Ovest – Sample hero pizzas, luscious lasagne and craft beer at this West Footscray charmer.