Owner-chef Philip Johnson may no longer be at the pans, but his 22-year-old CBD bistro still brandishes his signature ethos of delivering approachable yet elevated food in a comfortable setting with stellar service.

Welcoming, well-trained staff seat diners in the intimately lit, charcoal and white modern dining room, with the open kitchen providing an element of theatrics.

Order a glass from the dynamic, out-of-the-box wine list, strongly representing the likes of Germany, France and Italy, alongside Australia and New Zealand, and peruse the equally global menu.

From Asia to the Middle East, Europe and beyond, head chef Simon Palmer takes inspiration from across the globe, effortlessly stitching cuisines together to create dishes that entice.

Take his pastilla, a version of the Moroccan pie b’stilla, which features a flaky round of pastry encasing well-seasoned braised goat alongside fresh figs glazed with Spanish sherry Pedro Ximenez. Or perhaps a more classically European main of suckling pig with aerated mashed potato, enlivened with sweet apple sauce, dried apple rounds and a dusting of black lime ash.

Traditional roast beef is given a Middle Eastern twist thanks to a coating of Baharat spice blend, sweet carrot hummus and sensational potatoes in a syrupy glaze. Desserts are equally other-worldly – custard tart with halva, say – but it’s the savoury items that demand priority here.

Must-eat dish: Goat pastilla
Instagram: @eccobistro