Having relocated to Newstead’s Gasworks precinct a last year, the fit-out is contemporary and casual with hanging greenery, blonde timber chairs and grey stone floors, making this a spot that transcends business lunches to special occasion dinners.

An open kitchen wafts cooking aromas through the space from the protein-focused, bistro-style menu. Perhaps that of delicate tortellini plump with prawn in a fragrant ginger and lemongrass broth with crescents of firm squid; or better yet, kangaroo tartare pepped up with a jalapeño dressing piled onto spicy rice crackers. Angus short rib cooked into sweet, sticky submission with pickled onions for contrast is a terrific alternative for beef lovers not interested in the two steaks offered; while a creamy Moreton Bay bug risotto gently spiked with chilli will win over seafood fans.

Service is professional and polite, with staff competently helping diners navigate the succinct but style-diverse wine list and cocktail offering.

Desserts play on the classics and a deconstructed strawberry and raspberry cheesecake ensures a return visit.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): kangaroo tartare, Angus short rib, bug risotto