Owners Abby Osborne and Julian Velasquez did much of the work themselves, stripping back and rebuilding the brick and stone structure, and creating additions in keeping with the original rustic style. The final result is stunning. The main dining space, including bar and display of house-baked breads and pastries, opens out to lawns and a paved courtyard where twin wood ovens are fired up for pizzas on Friday nights.

In the kitchen, two adjustable wood-fuelled grills are pillars of the cooking, as are the signature ingredients (corn, pork, chillies et cetera) and flavours of Colombia, where Velasquez was raised. This is reflected in a bocadillo (roll) filled with crisp prawns, chipotle and grilled queso (cheese). More sophisticated is the “causa de cangrejo”, a colourful combo of purple congo mash, blue swimmer crab and avocado, crowned with a quail egg and a golden aji amarillo dressing.

More seafood is to be found in the “Cazuela de Mariscos”, a combination of prawns, mussels, pipis and pieces of mackerel, all simmered in a creamy, saffron-scented broth. The cooking time of each element is bang on and the rarely-seen mackerel shines.

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