Entering Electric Avenue is like falling down the rabbit hole in Alice In Wonderland.

The heritage building that previously housed Crosstown Eating House, and briefly Crosstown Public House, has been transformed into a whimsical, 1930s-style playground for grown-ups (including a secret bar upstairs).

Curious knick-knacks fill lit cabinets high above the dining room, a mounted deer head draws attention, while dark stained wainscotting, timber chairs and booth seating add an old-time touch. When it’s full, the place is raucous and lively. But the buzzy atmosphere does come at a cost, with the service team still trying to find its feet. They are further constrained by an inability to hear guests over all the noise.

A few niggles, too, affect the food. The compact mod-Oz menu has serious potential but isn’t quite there yet. It does have some true gems, though, such as bubbly, crunchy sheets of pork crackling that snap, crackle and pop.

An entree of charred witlof with beetroot and goat’s cheese is simple and satisfying, but at $20, needs a little more “wow” factor, while whole grilled cobia fired up with a spicy kimchi carrot puree is pleasant without being memorable.

The blackened duck breast is a different story. The meat is blushing and the fat expertly rendered, while crisp rounds of potato offer a hint of smoke alongside salty olive crumbs, pistachio cream and roasted pickled carrots.

A cleverly curated drinks list runs the gamut from Austrian biodynamic wines and classic cocktails to local beers and boutique spirits, including a cracking whisky collection, fuelling the fun.

It is very early days and, given time, this quirky and kooky venue will no doubt come into its own.