A bit cheeky, referencing the past while looking to today, it’s a dish that perfectly captures Elektra, George Calombaris’s new late-night bar and eatery that has taken the place of his shuttered Greek fancy fine-diner, The Press Club.

No, I’m not talking about the dish on everyone’s lips – though there’s much to love about a Lune vol-au-vent piled high with butter chicken, make no mistake – but the rather more humble pleasure of beans on toast. Putting an after-dark twist on the classic British breakfast of his youth (the kitchen’s open post midnight), chef Reuben Davis teams tiny, tender broad beans with poached mussels, a hit of harissa providing fire to their salty creaminess, and gossamer sheets of lardo draped over adding double richness to the buttery toasted sourdough they sit on. Simply superb.

Elektra is Davis stepping out of the Calombaris-Press Club shadow. And while he’s transferring his decade of fine-dining experience to an easy-going modern menu, such cheffy touches – like a plate of extraordinary Milking Farm Yard chicken livers, seared and served with witlof and tangelo – mean this is no ordinary bar.

The Press Club’s famed tarama makes a cameo atop hash browns topped with vinegar powder and salmon caviar to hit number one with a bullet on the city’s best drinking-snacks chart, while buttery leeks in a nutty vin jaune foam don’t even need the preserved truffle purée underneath to shine bright. Bigger plates include an artful veal schnitzel draped with anchovies on a caper-strewn, tuna-flecked braise.

While the golden ocean-liner bones of The Press Club remain, the room has been given a gentle refresh – as has the cellar, the worldly line-up featuring 30 wines, all available by the glass.

Keenly priced for return visits with sharp service, a rollicking soundtrack and classic cocktails shaken with class, Elektra lights up the night.