If only more places had dishes like the Murray cod with capers at Eleni’s, a cellar-door restaurant that seeks out local suppliers.

Eleni’s tells the story of Peter and Eleni Markeas, two migrants from southern Greece who established a small holding of fruit trees and grapes outside Renmark, eventually producing their own wine under the Mallee Estate label. Fifteen years ago, they opened a cellar door and then, in 2017, a restaurant, serving the homely Greek food they grew up with.

Tables are set in a tasting room where the fluted iron panels and rustic timber suggest bush pub as much as Greek taverna. That changes with the first bite of a warm pita wedge spread with garlicky eggplant dip. Most of the menu is made up of traditional favourites such as spanakopita and chargrilled octopus, while other meats and seafoods arrive on the arm of more fashionable partners.

A special of lamb cutlets comes with a splatter of beetroot puree and rocket and fennel salad. The Murray cod, a perfectly roasted fillet, is enhanced by a saute of chopped tomato and celery, as well as a butter sauce containing plenty of local capers.

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