The cooking is often memorable; the drinks list superb. If anything, eleven just needs a little more confidence in its own skin. The name refers to its location in Waymouth St, tucked away at the rear of an office tower. A dark, handsome room, with a cohesive mix of tactile materials in black, copper and deep green, features a long, open kitchen fronted by a marble chef’s table overlooking the pass.

Here chef Water Lo supervises the contemporary French cooking, realised mostly as hero ingredients arranged on a plate and sauced at the table. The magic here is the extraordinary, seductive flavours to be found in liquids with the consistency of your morning tea or coffee. 

Briefly cured strips of King George whiting are tossed with pink lady apple and kohlrabi, before a chicken and wakame sauce takes it up another gear. For crimped pasta parcels of goat’s curd and leek, a charred onion broth is poured from a tea pot. Fillets of Murray cod, mussels and zucchini spheres are laid around an island of nutty pearl barley lapped by an elixir of fish stock and yellow bean.

Pieces of poached, dried pear, topped with a large dollop of buffalo curd, gives dessert a savoury edge, while a ginger crisp, glazed on one side, supplies sweet relief.

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