Can an old dog learn new tricks? Given the nomadic nature of chefs, I’ve often experienced a sense of déjà vu at their latest venue, so my answer would generally be “no”. But occasionally their culinary ID is barely recognisable from its previous incarnation. Jeremy Bentley may not consider himself an old dog, but at Eliza Food & Wine his new tricks are a long way from the technically driven fare at his former restaurant, The Devonshire.

At Eliza, the menu is all about lightness and simplicity, free from the shackles of finer dining, aided and abetted by head chef Shaz Akbar.

Occupying a corner spot on Darlinghurst’s lively Victoria Street, Eliza is filled with natural light and simply furnished – it’s smart and contemporary without being overstated.

The staff are spirited about the offering, and rightly so because the food, for the most part, has all the hallmarks of a chef with great attention to detail and an appreciation for restraint.

Among the entrées, small balls of salted sea bream brandade sit in a rich, airy taramasalata, while slices of glazed peach partner shavings of aged serrano ham and puffed pork crackling. Both are delightful. Shiso, pickled radish and puffed black rice add joy to cured ocean trout, but a roast carrot dish, a signature no less, disappoints. The dab of black garlic is too astringent and the carrot mousse, pea and pine nut ensemble is pedestrian. Happily, it’s at odds with everything else.

Cone Bay barramundi, for instance, seared until crisp-skinned with juicy, opalescent flesh and served with lightly fermented cabbage and dense yoghurt, is a must. So too slow-cooked porchetta with smoked almond cream and wilted gem lettuce.

There’s nothing ground-breaking here, apart from an ability to evolve and adapt to the whim of the public, a trick many old dogs should learn.