It’s difficult to walk past Jeremy Bentley’s new casual fine diner without stepping inside. Taking over a coveted corner site in Darlinghurst, the Victoria Street venue is surrounded by picture-frame windows, offering an unrestricted view to the action within. Tables of two tease pedestrians with brioche finger toasts topped with pickled Port Lincoln sardines and minced prawn spring rolls smeared with an aerated saffron mayo.

The light-filled dining room, with its pale salmon walls and cognac leather banquettes, is warm and inviting without being overdone. Oak timbers line the dining perimeter while stools sit smartly at a wraparound bar. Despite Bentley’s classical training, the modern Australian menu isn’t afraid to have a little fun. A pair of silky eggplant slippers are filled with the snap, crackle and pop of puffed buckwheat while a single roasted carrot sits smugly beside a carrot custard scattered with sourdough and pine nut crumbs.

Skip the tea or coffee for an earl grey and berry tea brulee, soldered shut with burnt sugar. As for drinks, cocktails stick to the classics while a concise wine list dotes on South Australian drops. 

Must Eat Dish: Miso roasted eggplant with puffed buckwheat, green onion and nori