It then disappears, melting from the heat of pumpkin soup poured over the top at the table by well-versed waitstaff.

With a hunk of chewy housemade sourdough and house-cultured butter to mop up every last millilitre, Elska is a restaurant that takes the ordinary and twists it into the unbelievable. The intimate, 12- seat, degustation-only fine diner is headed by chef/owner Nathan Dunnell, who is passionate about showcasing local ingredients and sustainability throughout every one of the 14 or so courses ($160).

This may include, for instance, the “offcuts” of cobia from a previous raw dish mashed into a patty for a tasty little fish sandwich; or pig offal made into pate served alongside a slab of slow-roasted pork shoulder. Even beetroot is used multiple ways, from a Danish-style beetroot roulette sweet pastry to a deep-red kombucha available on its own or as part of the restaurant’s non-alcoholic drinks pairing ($85).

An alcoholic pairing ($105) is also available, or diners can choose from a carefully created list of local and European wine, sake and house cocktails. With bold ideas and brave concepts, Elska is for the adventurous diner.

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