That lingering woodfire oven smoke. Baking smells of rosemary and quinoa sourdough loaves. How the edgy 60-seater is appropriately dressed in all-black, from those moody walls to the timber floors. The energy an open kitchen brings and the might of the smoked duck liver toast hitting just right. Dave Verheul and Christian McCabe’s spritely venue continues to burn strong, seven years on.

Seasonal, locally sourced produce builds around an Aussie/Euro wine list filled with lesser-known styles and varieties. A textural, tropical fruit-forward blend of pinot blanc and pinot gris stands up to most things: the swagger of that smoked duck liver parfait on burnt-edged sourdough with sumac and salty sour grapes. Refreshing wedges of cured snapper lolling in a bright basil puree, lively yuzu citrus and cooling cucumber crunch.

Even the sumptuous dumpling-like mezzelune – crescents plump with silverbeet surrounded by a snappy Comte sauce, golden zucchini coins, hazelnut crunch and wild rocket adding a salty, menthol depth. All that, plus staff who know their stuff and “bread with cred” and this city wine bar proves it’s still got as much skin in the game as the wines it pours.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.