What happens when a wealthy businessman with a penchant for vintage cars and historic Tasmanian homesteads buys up another sprawling property and turns it in to something special? Answer: a great place to eat.

Stretching across two sides of Meander Valley Highway at Hadspen, about 10 minutes from Launceston, is Entally Estate, which was recently acquired by Rob Sherrard. On one part of the property sits Entally House, built in the early 1800s and once home to a Premier and Melbourne Cup winner. On the other, a mammoth brick building of accommodation, food, wine and automobiles, known as Entally Lodge.

The place suggests Function Venue, but despite the huge spaces on offer to you or a group of 500, is inviting and on trend. There’s a private dining room with copper bar, exposed brick and a vintage Vespa. Then there’s a warehouse, which boats an impressive collection of cars, owned by Rob and a few others.

On a Tuesday night we have to eat in The Bar: for the moment The Kitchen is open Wednesday until Saturday. But that’s cool, because our only option immediately impresses.

The space features a very Monarch of the Glen wooden bar, behind which some of Tasmania’s best top shelf glitters. Swirly dark carpet and spongy bench seats invite you in, while glossy timber tables and low hanging pendant lights plus the odd Sidney Nolan add plenty of luxe.

The often-changing menu has three chapters: To Share, Small Plates and Large Plates. You’d think these would be staggered but we order across the board and are presented with all at once.

The fried pork belly with cashew cream, pickled radish and cucumber is fantastic: a great balance of crunch and sweet, squishy fat. The arancini balls again show these guys know decent bar food: they’re easy to manoeuvre and satisfying.

In another nod to good gastropub grub, the buttermilk fried chicken burger on brioche with crunchy iceberg, sweet onion and streaky bacon, would impress any Colonel. The steak sandwich, although a little cool by the time I get to it, is pinkish tender and has all the right companions: bacon, leaves, chunky relish and an astoundingly bright fried egg.

My pick of the plates is the fish and chips: generous chunks of pan-fried white fish, so sweet and buttery. There is some confusion over the accompanying fries (gluten free or not?) which is yet another reminder of how wait staff must know exactly what’s what on a menu.

While the service needs a bit of a polish, overall our waitress is charming and prompt. The diners around us – a few mature couples, young parents and baby, 30-somethings propped at the bar – seem to be having a good time too, as the place has a nice hum beneath some smooth tunes.

After we’ve tidied up savouries, we polish off a marvellous parfait with chunks of honeycomb and panna cotta soaked in booze and strawberries. Throw in a glass of Frogmore Creek Riesling from a great local wine list and it’s happy days.

I’ll be back to explore The Kitchen’s ever-changing menu and a closer glimpse at that Chevy Roadster.