At Entrecote, the simple things in life are always the best: perfectly crisp, salted (bottomless) fries; a salad of the leaves of the season, simply dressed and with walnuts tossed through; Hopkins River Black Angus steak, blushingly pink, full of flavour, served with a vibrant tarragon and garlic-licked herb sauce. It’s steak and chips, sure, but this transcendent comfort dish is served here with style (waistcoated and aproned authentically accented staff) and in surrounds that bring out the air-kissing best of South Yarra bonhomie (with a balcony just made for afternoon champagnes).

Modelled on the one-dish Parisian restaurant of the same name (Le Relais De L’Entrecote), Melbourne’s version might have steak in its name and is its signature game, but the remit here has broadened to also include breakfast early – croque monsieur and bircher, Berocca and Bloody ‘Marie Antoinette’- and a bar menu till midnight that includes a deeply restorative French onion soup.

The French-leaning wine list has a good by-the-glass selection, which makes ordering a selection of cheese and settling in an effortless proposition, whether on the patio in the sun or in the downstairs red-hued dining room.

A CBD branch has recently opened, offering the same broad-brushed menu but with an added emphasis on plateaux de fruits de mer – seafood platters – that sit happily alongside the happy hour oysters and glasses of Mumm.

Simple. Delicious.

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