It’s one of the main reasons a faithful band of customers continue to fill the dining room that still looks the part with its rustic stone walls and hand-painted friezes.

In the glass-fronted kitchen, owner/ chef Enzo Fazzari has pared back his menu a little from the early years, with some signs of minimalism in the plating as well. Classics remain covered, without some of those expensive-to-hold fad items such as the tomahawk steak. Still, there’s much to love about old-school plump scallops wrapped in generous strips of bacon.

A healthy kingfish fillet might be too simple for some, sided by a lettuce slaw with solo pops of pomegranate. The luxury of South Australian blue swimmer crab always impresses, tossed through a cherry tomato sauce and tumbled with perfectly al dente linguine. Freshly made fettuccine “Umbria” is the superstar, however, so rich and unctuous with porcini and swiss browns vying for attention in a sauce of Italian sausage, black truffle paste and a deft splash of cream.

Finish with a dessert special of Bailey’s panna cotta. 

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.