For more than five years Angie Giannakodakis and Guy Holder have been quietly delivering a masterclass in good old-fashioned hospitality in a stately Victorian terrace opposite the Exhibition Building.

It’s here that, along with the customer, that sit down and sink in European comfort is king. Where a dark rye loaf hot from the oven is served in a linen bag, ready to spread with properly salted butter. Where a trolley of ripe imported cheeses welcomes guests to a dining room complete with a marble fireplace and vintage crockery.

Pickles and house-made baguette are all that’s needed to accompany a sublime duck liver parfait, while burnt butter jus drizzled on a cast iron pan of roast chicken, served with a side of earthy, sweet carrots is as equally and deliciously simple.

A dory cassoulet artfully subs out the sausage for perfect flaky fish, the beans teamed with Jerusalem artichoke puree for inspired nutty creaminess.

To finish, I eye off that cheese trolley, but opt for the dessert trolley instead. It rewards with a textbook brulee that comes housed under with a thick caramel roof (with excellent ‘crack’), and a super-sharp lemon tart. The waiter offers a splash of Madeira from the esoteric (if expensive) Euro wine list to go with, and my arm is bent.

With food and a service like this, the belle epoch of Epocha continues.

Must-eat dish: Roast chicken
Instagram: @epochacarlton