There’s a joy and a magic to the food Esquire chef-owner Ryan Squires puts on the plate (or coconut shell or stone). While the Brisbane River and Story Bridge view could easily be the star attraction at this degustation-only fine diner, Squires ensures all eyes are firmly on the table.

Affable, well-drilled staff deliver each course – anywhere between 12 and 25 items – explaining the multiple elements and cooking techniques like proud school children reciting the alphabet; while the sommelier offers an expert wine matching ($75-$105 per head and highly recommended) but also suggests drops on the fly from the constantly changing, concise and interesting, international list.

The culinary whimsy may begin with supple, house-cured prosciutto, buffalo jerky and the restaurant’s unique version of potato crisps, soaked in onion broth and air dried for an addictive, crunchy snack. Before following with a quirky take on a curry featuring a dome of coconut cream sorbet floating in a subtly spiced madras oil with fried curry leaves, beside a slice of the lightest Japanese cheesecake. It’s a match that seems illogical, but it is also this type of culinary synthesis that Squires pulls off with finesse.

Even the simplest of dishes offers wow factor – crusty malt sourdough rye with conversation-stopping molasses butter.

While Squires is perhaps pushing fewer boundaries with his food these days to make it more approachable for the masses, there’s still enough eccentricity and fantasy to keep the stakes high.

Must-eat dish: Semi-dried tomatoes with burnt butter, macadamia milk, basil oil and garlic.