One of the few remaining temples to fine dining in Sydney, est. has been a mainstay on the higher-end our food scene for a reason.

Impeccable, attentive service, classic white tablecloths, Greek pillars, crystal chandeliers that actually sparkle — and that’s not even mentioning the food, essentially a masterclass in Peter Doyle’s ultra-refined, modern Australian cooking.

The restaurant offers a choice of a two, three or a four course chef’s menu.

You can choose from all manner of things like a plate of chubby, Port Phillip Bay scallops, or Moreton Bay bug tails served with baby cos lettuce, macadamia nut, yuzu curd, finger lime and kombu butter.

Then bigger things like smoked partridge breast with smoked celeriac, treviso, hazelnut and a cream of comte cheese.

Or a butter poached john dory with confit fennel, squid and zucchini.

Yes, this is one of the more expensive nights out — particularly if you decide to pluck some of the higher-end drops from the comprehensive wine list — but it’s a meal that should be experienced at least once.

Must eat: The Moreton Bay big tail